Tuesday, 26 September 2017

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Fantail Shell Stitch Fingerless Gloves - free crochet pattern

Last year I made and sold many pairs of fingerless gloves at my Christmas markets but, unless you bought a pair in person, very few people saw any photos of them online other than in the background of my stall photographs!

Last week, prep began again in earnest for my upcoming seasonal craft fairs and I popped a photo up on my Instagram of my gloves and my phone lit up like a Christmas tree with people excited about the pattern!




So, as promised, here it is! I am aware many people struggle with written patterns so I will also be making a YouTube tutorial for these gloves very soon - just awaiting a little arm thingy to arrive through the post that can hold my phone whilst I crochet so I can do a little crochet along with you all!

*YouTube video is now complete!!! *




A note on yarns and colours:

·         I love Cygnet Boho Spirit for these gloves. It has just the right amount of stretch and snuggle factor – not to mention how stunning the yarn colourways are.


You will only need one ball of yarn for these gloves.

I personally buy 2 balls so I can line up the colours so each glove matches its partner. Nothing makes my ocd eye twitch more than mismatched gloves!

I take the yarn, find the matching start points on both balls and use my yarn winder to cake the yarn up ready to rock. That way I know both gloves with be as close to each other as possible. You DO NOT NEED to do this. Seriously. I spend waaaaaaaay too much time matching up yarn ends. The colour changes are gradual, trying to find identical start points is nearly impossible. You will regret ever starting it when your living room floor is strewn with yarn barf. You will weep when you have torn apart 7 different balls of yarn trying to find similar colour points only to find they are differing dye lots. LIVE YOUR LIFE. BE FREE. Have mismatched gloves if you want to. Who cares? (well, I clearly care but those are my issues, not yours LOL)  

Although saying that, sometimes you will get lucky. I had 2 balls of Moonbeam on my shelf so grabbed those for this pattern. They were almost perfectly matched from the outset. Heaven! I only had to cut off this tiny amount from one ball before winding. The yarn gods were being kind to me today.




Other yarns I occasionally use for these gloves:

·         Red Heart Unforgettable – you may find you need to up your hook to a 4.5mm or even a 5mm on the shell rows as this yarn doesn’t seem to have much “give” to it. Try your gloves on periodically if using this yarn to make sure it still fits your hand nicely. Adjust your hook size accordingly.

·         King Cole Riot – not as soft as Boho Spirit and a little finer – should still work ok with a 4mm hook but it’s been a while since I’ve used it so I’d give the same advice for this yarn as I have for the Red Heart.

Talking of sizing …..

I have freakishly small hands (as I referred to in my last gloves pattern LOL) but have tried to make these crochet fingerless mitts a universal size to fit everyone.

I recommend you complete the first couple of rows and try it on to double check the fit – too baggy? Try dropping a hook size (I often use a 3.5mm instead of a 4mm for my own personal gloves) Too small? Try upping the hook size.


Pattern notes:

·         USA / American Terms
·         Hook size: 4mm
·         Yarn: Cygnet Boho Spirit

·         Repeat pattern between the asterisks * …….. *

·         Stitch count at end of row in brackets [  ]

·         Pattern notes / explanations specific to each row (info inside bracket written in italics)


Stitches / abbreviations used:

·         FSC = Foundation Single Crochet
·         Ch = Chain
·         Sc = Single Crochet
·         Hdc = Half Double Crochet
·         Dc = Double Crochet
·         Ss = slip stitch
·         Sp= space


·         Shell  = (3dc, ch1, 3dc) all into the same stitch
·         Hdc v-stitch = (hdc, ch1, hdc)  all into the same stitch


If you spot any errors or typos in this pattern PLEASE shout – I have gone a little pattern blind so you are all my pattern testers LOL !

This is a simple pattern that is easily adjusted – rounds of dc for the wrists then fantail shell stitch pattern for the hands.  

OK so lets begin! Working in joined rounds to start.


28 fsc, join with ss to first stitch [28]   or substitute for chain 28, join with ss, ch1, sc in each chain around, join with ss to first sc [28]

Rows 1 – 7

Ch2 (does not count as a stitch) dc in same stitch as ch2 and in each stitch around. Join with ss to 1st dc. [28]

Row 8

Ch2 (does not count as a stitch) dc in same stitch as ch2. Dc in next stitch.
*1 dc in next stitch, 2dc in next* repeat 12 times ending with 1dc in each of the last 2 stitches. Join with ss to 1st dc. [40]



Shell Rows I have forgotten to take any photos for the shell section in my haste to publish this pattern but I will try to add those shortly J 

I have added a chart for fantail stitch to help you visualise the rows - ignore the end and start on this chart, just look at the middle sectioning - it is the closest I could find to help!


Row 9
Ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc into the same stitch. Ch1, skip 1 stitch, sc into the next. Skip 3 stitches, shell (3dc, ch1, 3dc) into next.
*skip 3, 1sc, ch1, skip 1, 1sc, skip 3, shell*  repeat 2 more times.
Ss into 1st sc of the round, then ss into ch1 space.  

Row 10
Ch3 (counts as hdc, ch1) hdc into same space.
*ch3, sc into the ch1 sp of shell, ch3, hdc v-stitch (hdc, ch1, hdc) into next ch sp.* repeat 3 more times.
Ch3, sc into the ch1 sp of shell, ch3, ss into 2nd ch of intital ch3 of the round. Ss into the ch sp.

Row 11
Ch4 (counts as 1dc, ch1) 3dc into space. Sc in ch3 sp, ch1, sc into next ch3 sp.
*shell into ch sp of hdc v-stitch from row below, sc in ch3 sp, ch1, sc in next ch3 sp* repeat 2 more times.
2dc into same space as initial ch4, ss to 3rd ch of initial ch4 and then ss into ch sp.

Row 12
Ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc in same stitch.
*ch3, hdc v-stitch in ch1 sp from row below, ch3, sc in ch1 sp of shell* repeat 2 more times.
Ch3, hdc v-stitch in ch1 sp, ch3, ss to 1st sc.

Row 13
Ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc in next ch3 sp.
*shell into ch1 sp of hdc v-stitch from row below, sc in ch3 sp, ch1, sc in next ch3 sp* repeat 2 more times.
Shell in ch1 sp, sc in ch3 sp, ch1, ss to 1st sc.


THUMB GAP – now working in back and forth rows so you will be turning your work and NOT joining with a slip stitch at the end of each row


Row 14
Ch3 (counts as hdc, ch1) then hdc back into the ch1 space you created when you finished Row 13 (just before your slip stitch join)
*ch3, sc in ch1 sp of shell, ch3, hdc v-stitch in ch1 sp* repeat 2 more times.
Ch3, sc in ch1 sp of shell, ch3, ending with hdc v-stitch into the SAME ch1 space from Row 13 as you put your initial ch3 & hdc from the beginning of the round.
(you will have ch3, hdc AND a hdc v-stitch all in the same place) TURN.

Row 15
Ch3 (counts as dc) 2dc in the same space.
*sc in ch3 sp, ch1, sc in ch3 sp, shell in ch1 sp of hdc v-stitch from row below* repeat 2 more times.
Sc in ch3 sp, ch1, sc in ch3 sp, ending with 3dc into the sp of hdc v-stitch from row below. TURN.

Row 16
Ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc in top of the 3rd dc from row below (the stitch immediately below your ch)
*ch3, hdc v-stitch in ch1 sp, ch3, sc in ch1 sp of shell* repeat 3 more times ending with your last sc being placed into the top of your ch3 from the row below. TURN.

Row 17
Ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc in top of sc from row below.
*shell in ch1 sp, sc in ch3 sp, ch1, sc in next ch3 sp* repeat 2 more times.
Shell in ch1 sp ending the row with a sc into the top of the sc from the row below. TURN.

Row 18
Ch3 (counts as hdc, ch1) hdc into the top of sc from row below
*ch3, sc in shell ch1 sp, ch3, hdc v-stitch in ch1 sp* repeat 3 more times ending with your last hdc v-stitch into the top of the sc from the row below. TURN

Row 19
Repeat Row 15


BACK TO WORKING IN JOINED ROUNDS. Do not turn your work.


Row 20
Repeat Row 16 BUT DO NOT TURN YOUR WORK. Instead, end this row with a slip stitch to the 1st sc you made in this row.

Row 21
Repeat Row 13

Row 22
Ch3 (counts as hdc, ch1) then hdc back into the ch1 space you created when you finished the  the last row (just before your slip stitch join)
*ch3, sc in ch1 sp of shell, ch3, hdc v-stitch in ch1 sp* repeat 2 more times.
Ch3, sc in ch1 sp of shell, ch3, ss to 2nd ch of initial ch3 then ss into ch sp.

Row 23 – finishing row

(You will be starting with a full shell and omitting the ch1 space between your sc’s on this round.)

Ch3 (counts as 1dc) 2dc, ch1, 3dc into space. Sc in ch3 sp, sc into next ch3 sp.
*shell into ch sp of hdc v-stitch from row below, sc in ch3 sp, sc in next ch3 sp* repeat 2 more times.
Ss to 3rd chain of initial ch3.

 Cut yarn and weave in your ends! Repeat pattern for the second glove J



How would you like a sneaky little exclusive yarn discount code?

Snufflebean Yarn has very kindly given us 10% off all Boho Spirit yarn – this coupon is only valid until the end of November 2017 so be quick if you want to take advantage of it! She offers free postage on orders over £25 so what are you waiting for? You can make a pair of gloves in EVERY COLOURWAY!

To redeem the discount, please enter the code BOHO10 at checkout.




If you have any questions about this pattern / spot any errors / notice any typos just holler!

I would absolutely LOVE to see any gloves you make – please feel free to tag me in your photos on Instagram (I am @puddnhead) or post them to my Facebook page here! <3


Happy crocheting! (and yarn shopping … quick, don’t leave it too long to take advantage of that discount code!)

Robin x



Continue reading Fantail Shell Stitch Fingerless Gloves - free crochet pattern

Tuesday, 11 October 2016

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Puff Stitch Fingerless Gloves - free crochet pattern

I am currently in the throws of frantic Christmas Fair making prep (too early for the "c" word? Sorry!) and yesterday posted up a photo of a pair of fingerless gloves I made which needless to say I am keeping for myself!

Lots of people have asked about the pattern so I thought I would quickly pop the pattern up here on my blog so you can make yourself a pair too!

I have quite small wrists and often find that normal puff stitch gloves are too fat and bulky for my liking - I always look like I am wearing boxing gloves or the cuffs are too baggy so with that in mind, I used finer yarn which is still lovely and squishy but without the additional bulk.


These gloves fit my freakishly small arms and hands perfectly but make sure you check the fit as you go - if you find the first few rows are too tight, try going up a hook size or two.


Puff Stitch Fingerless Gloves - USA terms


4.5mm hook

Sock yarn (I've used hand dyed yarn from Fleabubs by Lala )



Stitches used:


Chain (ch)
Foundation single crochet (FSC)
Slip stitch (ss)
Single crochet (sc)

Puff stitch (yarn over, insert hook into stitch, draw up loop of yarn - repeat 3 more times, yarn over, draw through all loops on hook, chain 1 to secure)



Working in rounds

1. FSC 30, join with slip stitch to form a circle.

2. 1 sc in each chain around, join with ss (30)

3. Ch1, 1sc in each stitch around, join with ss (30)

4. Ch1, puff into same stitch. Skip a stitch, puff into next. Repeat around, join with ss to top of first puff. (15 puffs)

5 . SS into the space between your puff stitches from the row below. Ch1, puff. 1 puff in each space around, join with ss to top of first puff (15 puffs)


Repeat Round 5, 15 more times




Thumb hole section - now working in rows



Chain 3, TURN puff in between each puff from row below, ending with last puff in the same space as your ch3. (15 puffs)

Chain 3, TURN. Puff in spaces between puffs ending with last puff in ch3 space. (15 puffs)

Chain 3, TURN. Puff in spaces between puffs ending with last puff in ch3 space. (15 puffs)

Chain 3, TURN. Puff in spaces between puffs ending with last puff in ch3 space. (15 puffs)

Chain 1, TURN. Puff in spaces between puffs ending with last puff in ch3 space. Chain 4, join with ss to top of first puff in this row. (15 puffs)


Chain1, TURN. Puff in ch4 space, puff in each space around. Join with ss to top of first puff. Do not turn at end of this row, back to working in rounds (15 puffs)



Working in rounds - Repeat Round 5, 4 more times (15 puffs)



Finishing off your gloves



Ch1, sc in top of each puff AND in each space between puffs around, join with ss to top of first sc (30)

Repeat sc row once more.



Cut yarn and weave in ends.



I've written this in a bit of a rush so if you spot any errors please let me know! 


Happy hooking! 

Robin x





Continue reading Puff Stitch Fingerless Gloves - free crochet pattern

Wednesday, 14 September 2016

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Crochet Mermaid Tail Blanket Pattern information and Q&A

Any of you who follow me on Instagram will have seen my mermaid tails. I have been busy making them over the summer and selling them at Croyde Craft Market




Every time I would post a photo, I would get lots of requests for the pattern. I have been so busy over the summer that all I could do was try to help people as best I could with encouraging them to make their own version and apologising for only having the pattern in my head.



As I was reaching the end of my run of summer markets, I was chatting to some lovely ladies who were on holiday about the tails. One of them (I forget their names sorry!) ran a yarn shop and also taught crochet. We were talking about how people were requesting the pattern and they pointed out that I can only make so many tails … it wasn’t physically possible for me to make tails for all the people who were asking!

They also talked about how it was only a matter of time before my design would be inevitably ripped off and how others would profit from my hard work. They mentioned how one of the ladies had made a cocoon blanket and within weeks, someone else had made one based from her pictures and was now selling the pattern.


Encouraged by their words and heeding their advice, I decided to make the leap and sort out the pattern!



It is available for sale as a digital download on Etsy, Ravelry and my website in either USA terms or UK stitch terms.


I have been receiving wonderful feedback about my pattern and I’m now starting to see photographs of tails made from my pattern trickling out – it is SO exciting! I can’t tell you how much I love seeing the tails made from my pattern!



I also thought I would answer some of the recurring questions I have been getting about the pattern:



Is this a full sleeping bag blanket?

No! It is a snuggly pouch for your feet then splits at the back to be a traditional lap blanket. It is open at the back which means you can get in and out of it very easily!



Do you have a child sized version of the pattern?

No, there is no need! The blanket pattern is super flexible, if you require a smaller tail you can simply omit the last rows – once the shaping is done for the foot pouch, you only need complete the rows that take your blanket to the desired length. It is worked from the bottom up so is easy to tweak to suit your needs.


Do you have a larger adult sized version of the pattern?

Again, no need! The foot pouch section of the pattern is a one size fits all – the blanket section is easy to make longer, wider or both!


Do I have to use the recommended yarn weights?

No! The pattern calls for one strand of chunky yarn (the USA equivalent of UK chunky is Bulky) and two strands of double knit yarn to be held at the same time. These recommended yarn weights make for a nice, dense heavy textured blanket.

The pattern is not gauge specific so if you don’t want such a thick fabric, use less strands or substitute the yarn weights. You can mix it up however you want! 

The only important thing is the hook size. If you use less strands or finer yarns, you will have a lighter blanket.

My advice to everybody is grab whatever yarn you fancy, have a play with the first couple of rows and see how the blanket works up.


What yarn do you use?

All sorts! I raid my embarrassingly large stash of yarn and play with colour. I spend more time concentrating on my colour choices than I do the yarn brands. Mix and match to suit your taste!

The mermaid tail I made for the pattern itself uses one strand of James Brett Chunky and 2 strands of Stylecraft DK.



I do recommend however that you use 100% acrylic yarn so your tails are fully machine washable.


Can I sell the mermaid tail I make from your pattern?

Yes of course!

A little credit to me the designer is always appreciated but not obligatory.


I think that covers everything – if you have any other questions just shout and I will do my best to answer :D

Happy crocheting!

Robin xx
Continue reading Crochet Mermaid Tail Blanket Pattern information and Q&A

Sunday, 10 April 2016

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Happy Jellyfish Keyring Pattern

Eek! An exciting (and somewhat nerve-wracking) step forward has happened to me today – I have put my first crochet pattern up for sale!



My happy little jellyfish keyrings have been super popular and so I decided, after months of talking about it, to actually publish the pattern for them so you can make your own!

The pattern comes with permission to sell your items as I have found there is nothing more frustrating than finding a pattern you love, only to see it has got strict guidelines about NOT selling your finished items.



The pattern is for sale either on my website (here) Etsy (here) or Ravelry (here) and I have published both UK and USA terminology versions so hopefully everyone is covered.

If you have any questions or need additional help, feel free to drop me a message – the fastest way to get me is probably via my Facebook Page.

I’d love to see any happy jellies you make :D



Happy Crocheting!


Robin xx
Continue reading Happy Jellyfish Keyring Pattern

Saturday, 12 March 2016

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Crochet Happy Poop FREE PATTERN

My friend asked me to make her daughter a “friendly happy poo that could be cuddled and carried about” as she has issues with deliberately holding it in herself, and as she is so young, the doctor recommended she “make friends with her poo” … as much as we chuckled about this, it can be a serious problem especially as children get older so we are hoping having a poo buddy will help her!



When I made this, I uploaded it to my Instagram as a lot of people there share my same sense of humour but I am happy to admit, I did hesitate before sharing it on my Facebook page. Would people get it? Needless to say, the post exploded and got a ridiculous amount of likes, shares and comments – most from people asking for the pattern!

I certainly was never expecting people to a/ get it and b/ want the pattern! The whole concept of my poo receiving so much attention coupled with my toilet humour, naturally makes the whole thing both hilarious and crazy at the same time!

Needless to say, I duly sat down and tried to decipher my freestyled poop pattern and here it is!



For my large cuddly poo, I used chunky Cygnet yarn and a 4mm hook. My poo worked up to be roughly 10 inches tall but if you’d like a smaller poop, using any dk yarn and a 3mm hook will shrink the size.




Happy Poop Pattern

(USA Stitch Terms)

Materials needed:

·        Chunky Yarn (I used brown Cygnet Chunky in Chocolate from Sconch Yarn Shop) – you will get 2 turds from one ball
·        A scrap of white dk yarn for the eyes
·        4mm hook
·        12mm safety eyes
·        Stuffing

Stitches used:

Magic ring / circle
Sc (single crochet) (UK dc)
Inc (increase = 2sc in same stitch)
Dec (decrease = work 1 sc over 2 stitches)
Slip Stitch (ss)

** Repeat the pattern between the asterisks “*  *” until end of round

Work in spirals, do not join at the end of your rounds.



Eyes: use white dk yarn and make first!

1.      Magic ring, 6sc (6)  - do not pull the magic ring completely closed just yet!
2.     2sc into each stitch around (12)

Fasten off yarn leaving long tail for sewing to the face.

Insert the post of your safety eye into the middle of the magic ring, pull tight to close around post. Set to one side ready for attaching later.




Poop body

Stuff as you go to shape.

1.      Magic ring, 6 sc (6)
2.     2sc into each stitch around (12)
3.     *1sc, inc*  (18)
4.     *2sc, inc* (24)
5.     *3sc, inc* (30)
6.     *3sc, dec* (24)
7.     *2sc, dec* (18)
8.     *2sc, inc* (24)
9.     *3sc, inc* (30)
10. *4sc, inc* (36)

11.   – 19. Sc in each stitch around (36)

20. *4sc, dec* (30)

21. – 22. Sc in each stitch around (30)

23. *3sc, dec* (24)
24. *2sc, dec* (18)

25.   sc in each stitch around (18)

26. *2sc, inc* (24)
27. *3sc, inc* (30)
28. *4sc, inc* (36)

29. – 37. Sc in each stitch around (36)

38. *4sc, dec* (30)
39.   sc in each stitch around (30)

40. *3sc, dec* (24)
41.   sc in each stitch around (24)

Insert safety eyes (complete with crochet white attached) in-between rows 34 & 35 a few stitches apart. Push the back of the safety eyes FIRMLY into position making sure they click into place.

If you find your eye whites are too thick and making the safety eyes tricky to close properly, remove the eye posts from the center of the whites and push them in between the stitches just to the side of your magic ring center instead.

Sew the eye whites into place.

Continue with body

42. *2sc, dec* (18)
43.   sc in each stitch around (18)

44. *sc, dec* (12)
45.   sc in each stitch around (12)

Finish stuffing the body.

46. *2sc, dec* (9)

Chain 5, slip stitch to base of chain

47. *1sc, dec* (6)

Fasten off.

Sew yarn end around the front loops of the 6 stitches, draw tight to close.


Embroider your happy face however you wish, I added felt blushy cheeks and a bow which I sewed firmly into place.


Now cuddle your happy poop!




If you spot any errors in the pattern or are stuck at any point, feel free to leave a message here on the blog or ask on my Facebook page and I will be happy to help!

Happy turd making!

Robin x



Continue reading Crochet Happy Poop FREE PATTERN